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    "original_url": "https:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/2026\/02\/11\/style\/rachel-scott-proenza-schouler-new-york-fashion-week.html?campaign_id=9&emc=edit_nn_20260211&instance_id=170910&nl=the-morning&regi_id=122976029&segment_id=215096&user_id=b25c5730c89e0c73f75709d8f1254337",
    "parsed_content": "The New New York WomanRachel Scott, the new designer of Proenza Schouler, wants to dress the city for the future \u2014 and for the world.Credit...Daniela Spector for The New York TimesSkip to contentSkip to site indexSearch & Section NavigationSection NavigationAccountAccountThe New New York WomanRachel Scott, the new designer of Proenza Schouler, wants to dress the city for the future \u2014 and for the world.Credit...Daniela Spector for The New York TimesSupported bySKIP ADVERTISEMENTListen to this article \u00b7 10:56 min Learn moreShare full articleBy Vanessa FriedmanFeb. 11, 2026About a year ago, just after her Diotima show at New York Fashion Week, Rachel Scott had a meeting with Anna Wintour, the global editor in chief of Vogue. Ms. Scott had been named designer of the year by the Council of Fashion Designers of America, becoming the first female, Black designer to take home that prize, and she had been a finalist for the LVMH Prize and the CFDA\/Vogue Fashion Fund.She was, in other words, as feted as a newish independent fashion designer could be. So she had come to Cond\u00e9 Nast and the altar of Anna looking for some advice about where to take the four-year-old Diotima next.As Ms. Scott recalled, Ms. Wintour leveled a look at her from behind her dark glasses and said: \u201cLook, your business is never going to be as big as the big businesses. I\u2019m sorry to be disparaging.\u201dThat would have been a body slam for most designers\u2019 dreams, but Ms. Scott said she wasn\u2019t offended. In fact, she agreed. For her, being big was not the point. She is after something altogether more complicated.AdvertisementSKIP ADVERTISEMENTShe wants to change the status quo.On Wednesday, she will take a bow at her first show for Proenza Schouler, the label that once embodied the uptown-downtown New York gallery scene and seemed poised to be the breakout American brand of the 21st century. It is not only the official opening show of New York Fashion Week, but also the most anticipated show of the New York collections.ImageMs. Scott, center, with Da\u2019Vine Joy Randolph and Cynthia Erivo, after winning the 2024 CFDA award as women\u2019s wear designer of the year.Credit...Kristina Bumphrey\/WWD, via Getty ImagesAs the tectonic plates of the industry have shifted in the face of a broad slowdown in spending and a backlash against soaring prices, an unprecedented number of fashion houses have changed designers \u2014 with a majority of the newly named designers being white men.Ms. Scott is a self-described \u201cimmigrant, Black, queer woman with a disability.\u201d (She was born and grew up in Jamaica and has Charcot-Marie-Tooth disease, a degenerative neurological condition that affects mobility.) She is everything that has traditionally been excluded from the power positions of fashion.And she is aiming to prove not only that she can take Proenza Schouler to a globally competitive level while continuing her work with Diotima, but also that, in doing so, she can reimagine New York fashion and who gets to define it.AdvertisementSKIP ADVERTISEMENT\u201cFashion is very reflective of the world we live in,\u201d Ms. Scott said. \u201cAnd we live in a world that has taken a severe right turn. If you want to do something with some form of meaning, you\u2019re kind of an insurgent within a very conservative space. Fashion is not politics with a big P, but it\u2019s my way to get at it.\u201dSign up for the Race\/Related Newsletter Join a deep and provocative exploration of race, identity and society with New York Times journalists.\n Get it sent to your inbox.There\u2019s a reason Rama Duwaji, the new first lady of New York City \u2014 also the city\u2019s first Gen Z first lady and first Muslim first lady \u2014 was in the Diotima front row in September.Owning the MessMs. Scott officially took the reins of Proenza Schouler last summer, after the founders, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, became creative directors of Loewe, but she has yet to move into her SoHo office. She hasn\u2019t had time. Mr. McCollough and Mr. Hernandez\u2019s books are still on the shelves, and their cactus lists sadly on a table.\u201cBut the mess is mine!\u201d Ms. Scott said 10 days before her debut, pulling a plastic bag filled with makeup out of her Phoebe Philo tote, along with various fabric swatches, her iPad, two notebooks and a paperback copy of \u201cThe Book of Promethea\u201d by H\u00e9l\u00e8ne Cixous, which she had been reading for inspiration.She loves the work of Ms. Philo, another female designer who is doing fashion her own way. She had intended to bring in orchids to liven up the office \u2014 they remind her of her childhood \u2014 but she hadn\u2019t gotten around to it, so she had settled for incorporating an orchid print into the collection. Not the generic white phalaenopsis kind that is in every waiting room, but the spiky dendrobium kind.AdvertisementSKIP ADVERTISEMENTShe has pretty much been living in the Proenza offices since the new year, trundling over to the Diotima studio, which is three blocks away on Canal Street, at night and on weekends, laptop and bags in tow. \u201cI\u2019m destroying my shoulders and back,\u201d Ms. Scott said, \u201cbut I\u2019m in the show bunker.\u201dImage\u201cI was trying to find a way to a kind of formality, but adding a bit of desire in a way that wasn\u2019t overtly sexy and allows the woman to feel desirable for herself,\u201d Ms. Scott said of her Proenza Schouler.Credit...Daniela Spector for The New York TimesShe actually lives in Brooklyn with her wife, Chaday Emmanuel, who works in gender justice in Jamaica and New York. (They were married in 2024). \u201cI didn\u2019t think she could get busier,\u201d Ms. Emmanuel said, \u201cbut now her superlong days are into the night.\u201dHer next Diotima collection features a collaboration with the estate of the Cuban artist Wifredo Lam, currently the subject of a Museum of Modern Art retrospective. The Proenza Schouler collection, by contrast, started with her reading and rereading books like \u201cSpeculum of the Other Woman,\u201d a foundational text of feminist theory by Luce Irigaray, and watching the 1968 film \u201cTeorema\u201d by Pier Paolo Pasolini about the wild inner life of a bourgeois Italian family.If Diotima is visceral, Proenza is cerebral. You can see why Ms. Scott likes working on each of them. When she talks, she conveys both great calm and a sense that when she commits to something, she could become an immovable object.Tiny Skirts and Triangle BikinisWhen Shira Suveyke Snyder, the Proenza Schouler chief executive, was looking for a new designer, she saw between 30 and 40 candidates. Most of them, she noted, were from big European houses.\u201cA lot of them would have brought something that was similar to where we\u2019d been,\u201d Ms. Snyder said. But, she recalled thinking: \u201cIs that what\u2019s really going to take Proenza into the next decade or even the next five years? Does anyone really need that?AdvertisementSKIP ADVERTISEMENTThe answer led her to Ms. Scott. (Well, that and Ms. Scott\u2019s facility with textiles, long a Proenza signature.)The daughter of a furniture designer and a flight attendant for Air Jamaica who also had her own boutique in Kingston, Ms. Scott, now 41, worked in her mother\u2019s store as a child and later sewed her own clothes on their portable Singer sewing machine. It wasn\u2019t because she dreamed of being a designer but because she wanted something to wear clubbing.\u201cTiny skirts and triangle bikinis,\u201d she remembered, rolling her eyes.She went to Colgate University, where, during orientation, she met her best friend, Shinae Lee, who is now the director of strategy and operations at Diotima. Ms. Scott still remembers Ms. Lee\u2019s Juicy Couture tracksuit.\u201cWe were on the lawn, and she refused to sit on the grass in her suit, so she squatted for the entire hour,\u201d Ms. Scott said. They both double-majored in fine arts and French literature.\u201cRachel would always talk about how much she wanted to bring Jamaica into the forefront in some way,\u201d Ms. Lee said. \u201cIt was deeply personal for her.\u201dWearing Diotima (from left): Tessa Thompson at a Critics Choice celebration of Black cinema in December 2025; Greta Lee at a \"Tron: Ares\" premiere in London in October 2025; and Angel Reese at a Victoria's Secret fashion show in October 2024.Credit...Randy Shropshire\/Getty Images; Tristan Fewings\/Getty Images; Theo Wargo\/Getty ImagesAdvertisementSKIP ADVERTISEMENTMs. Scott loved Italian Vogue and briefly considered working in magazines, but an internship at Vogue changed that. It is also where she first met Ms. Wintour.\u201cI was in the hallway, and she kind of just walked past and stopped and looked at me, then kept walking,\u201d Ms. Scott said. \u201cI think that was the moment where I was like, \u2018Maybe this isn\u2019t for me.\u2019\u201dPivoting to design, she went to the Istituto Marangoni in Milan, followed by a tour through various brands, including Costume National, J. Mendel and Elizabeth and James. Then she was hired by Rachel Comey, the indie New York designer beloved by funky professionals, where she spent eight years before deciding to go out on her own after \u201can existential pandemic crisis.\u201d\u201cSo much of my life, I was trying to build security because of being an immigrant,\u201d Ms. Scott said. \u201cBut in that moment, I realized there was no such thing as security, and I needed to find a way for my every day to mean something.\u201dWomen of InterestMs. Scott became an American citizen in 2020, and shortly thereafter started Diotima, which treats traditional Jamaican crochet like Chantilly lace, and Jamaican craftspeople as an artistic resource. She conceived it as \u201can anti-imperialist project to reorient where value is placed, decentering it from Europe.\u201d\u201cShe was scared,\u201d Ms. Lee said. \u201cShe didn\u2019t know how the industry would react.\u201dBy early 2021, she had orders. The British stylist and consultant Marika-Ella Ames, whose father\u2019s family was from Jamaica, signed on. She said she liked the idea of showing that \u201cJamaica was not just rum, Bob Marley and colorful shacks.\u201dAdvertisementSKIP ADVERTISEMENTThe whole venture was self-financed, largely through prize money. But Ms. Scott knew she would need new revenue streams to expand, which led to Proenza. \u201cThere are so many other things I\u2019m interested in that I can explore here,\u201d she said.Image\u201cI want everything to have some kind of touch of the hand or craft,\u201d Ms. Scott said.Credit...Bryan Bedder\/Getty ImagesImageMs. Scott\u2019s Diotima presentation at New York Fashion Week in February 2024 highlighted her signature mix of tailoring and crochet work. Credit...John Lamparski\/Getty Images\u201cA lot of these white men designers flatten the idea of women,\u201d she said. \u201cThey\u2019re either sexy or they\u2019re proper or they\u2019re uptight or they\u2019re flashy. The woman can never embody complexity. I think that is problematic.\u201dShe continued: \u201cA New York woman in 2026 is very global. There\u2019s a certain precision to her, but I don\u2019t really believe in perfection. It can be quite restrictive. I have these characters in my mind. Like a lady who is a professional but who also goes fencing, though you would never know because she doesn\u2019t talk about it. She has esoteric obsessions, private pastimes.\u201dWhile her Proenza clothes are fit for the office, they are also slightly twisted. The waists of the dresses are a little high, to elongate the legs; skirt suits are knit, rather than wool, so they are both buttoned up and relaxed. Like many female designers, Ms. Scott wears her own designs, as do her mother and her wife. She hates even the concept of the corset.AdvertisementSKIP ADVERTISEMENTWhat she likes are bell bottoms with big white buttons at the calf, like sailor pants, that can actually be undone to flash a bit of leg. Shoes that are witchy-pointy or pumps with a bulbous square toe that look like a cross between a clown shoe and a career girl\u2019s uniform. A skinny rectangular evening bag that is big enough to actually put stuff in and derives its fanciness from contrasting textures rather than decorative beading.To get to know the Proenza clients better, she was introduced to a group of V.I.C.\u2019s over a dinner in December. One was a Pilates instructor, one was a retired lawyer, one was a writer, three were art advisers. \u201cProenza has always had this relationship to the art world,\u201d Ms. Scott said. But more than the art that often inspired Proenza collections, she was interested in the people who made it.To that end, she name-checked the kind of women she had in mind for in her show, including the artists Cecily Brown and Rita Ackermann and the curator Samantha Ozer. The psychoanalyst Jamieson Webster and the writer Zoe Dubno will be on the runway amid the professional models, who include not just the usual group of youngsters but the 50something Jamaican model Romae Gordon, who recently came out of retirement. In the audience: Thelma Golden, the director of the Studio Museum in Harlem; Mindy Seu, the creator of the Cyberfeminism Index; and the gallerist Bridget Donahue.\u201cYou can be really put together and a superpowerful professional woman, but you don\u2019t have to be that self-serious,\u201d Ms. Scott said. \u201cThose are the women I\u2019m interested in.\u201dVanessa Friedman has been the fashion director and chief fashion critic for The Times since 2014.See more on: Proenza SchoulerShare full articleRelated ContentAdvertisementSKIP ADVERTISEMENT",
    "ai_headline": "The New New York Woman",
    "ai_simplified_title": "Rachel Scott Redefines Proenza Schouler Fashion Week",
    "ai_excerpt": "Rachel Scott, the new designer of Proenza Schouler, aims to reimagine New York fashion and dress the city for the future. She is the first female, Black designer to win the CFDA award and is challenging the status quo. The article details her journey and vision for the brand.",
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        "Proenza Schouler",
        "New York Fashion Week",
        "Rachel Scott",
        "Diversity in Fashion",
        "Fashion Industry",
        "Diotima"
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